Zermatt, Switzerland

John Henderson Matterhorn Summit

The Matterhorn is the world’s most iconic peak and needs little introduction. The summit stands at 4,478m and its perfect shape dominates the skyline. Climbing the Matterhorn is on the 'must do' list of both aspiring and experienced mountaineers alike. To stand on top of the Matterhorn is a worthy goal and a life-defining experience! At Mountain Tracks, we have 20 years of experience on the mountain and a fantastic record of summit success. We offer a tried and tested six-day program which includes all the preparation and acclimatisation necessary for an attempt on this challenging summit.

Nestled on the border between Switzerland and Italy, this huge, roughly hewn rock pyramid serves as a defining landmark. The well documented first ascent is an important milestone in the history of climbing, so for most, the ascent is more than a physical challenge it is also a journey of discovery.

Climbing the Matterhorn is committing, this means it is essential you have previous alpine mountaineering experience. Specifically, you are comfortable scrambling on steep rock, have good rope skills and familiarity with using crampons on steep snow and ice, both in ascent and descent. Climbing the Matterhorn is more technical than Mont Blanc, but is an achievable objective for fit climbers with a structured plan of training and acclimatisation.

The route we take is via the Hornli Ridge (AD) from Zermatt. The ascent is only moderately technical but it is a very long rock climb with some steep snow at altitude and plenty of exposure. Climbers must be very sure-footed on steep terrain and have lots of endurance. 

The summit day itself is long, with tricky scrambling (up to 4,500m in elevation) and requires commitment and concentration for 8+ hours. The climbing on the Matterhorn is delicate and sustained rather than difficult, so it is essential that the correct preparation has been put in place.

 

AM I READY TO CLIMB THE MATTERHORN?

The Hornli Ridge is graded AD and has a vertical ascent of 1300m. Most of the climbing is done with boot soles on dry rock, but crampons are usually worn for the final section to the summit. All climbers attempting the peak need to be comfortable with the environment and well prepared. We advise that climbers should have previously completed a minimum of one week of alpine mountaineering, this experience could have been gained on Mont Blanc or on our Alpine Introduction course. A structured aerobic fitness program before the course starts is highly recommended, this can include hill walking, scrambling, cycling or running. Please see our preparation page for more details.

WHAT IS THE STANDARD OF ACCOMMODATION IN THE HUTS?

The huts are run by full-time staff that looks after us on a half-board basis, the cooking is hearty homemade food. Water, beer, wine and a picnic lunch is available at extra cost. The sleeping quarters are communal.

Day Itinerary

  • Travel and Ascent to the Hornli Hut

    Travel to Zermatt and meet your guide at the bottom station of the cable car to Schwarzsee and then continue on foot for 2 hours to the newly renovated Hornli hut (3260m). Here we stay the night, fill up on great food and prepare for an early start the next day

  • Ascent of the Matterhorn

    We begin the climb on the Hornli Ridge at around 4am, the first hour is climbed with head-torches. Halfway up the ridge is a small bivouac shelter called the Solvay refuge, this is a useful staging post to rest and evaluate progress. We reach the summit in a total of 5 hours. The descent is by the same route and again takes around 5 hours. Once back at the Hornli Hut we descend back to Zermatt where you can have a celebratory drink. 

    You will continue with your travel plans.

2021

Dates

Price

Fri 03 Sep
- Sat 04 Sep
£1529 Full
Flexible From £1,529 PRIVATE GROUP Enquire

The price includes:

  • 2 full days guiding fees & expenses

  • 1 night HB accommodation in Hornli Hut

 

The price does not include:
  • equipment hire

  • travel to/from Zermatt

  • local transfers, cable cars, lifts

  • lunches and drinks

  • insurance

 

Please note that in case of cancellation in addition to T&Cs, 100CHF will be kept to cover a non-refundable hut booking fee. 

 

 

Here at the Mountain Tracks, we give you our word that we will fully refund every part of your package holiday if it is not able to run due to COVID-19.

Our Mountain Tracks and holiday teams are monitoring the COVID-19 outbreak guidance and advice while communicating closely with our suppliers to make sure everything is in place to keep you safe.
Read more: Frequently Asked Questions.

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This list contains our recommended clothing and equipment for our Matterhorn Climber weeks.

In the summer months, the days generally start very cold and warm up during the morning to become hot in the afternoon. It is therefore essential that you have 2-3 thin layers that you are able to put on/take off as the conditions change. Thin layers also allow better movement as opposed to one layer of bulky clothing.

If you are uncertain or need further information, please contact us.

  • There are 2 grades of boots for alpine trekking and mountaineering: B1 and B2

    • B1 boots are usually lightweight boots offering more flexibility when walking and are usually suitable only for trekking, easy glacier walking and Via Ferrata trips.

    • B2 boots are semi-rigid boots that are the best option for summer alpine mountaineering trips. There are leather and plastic/composite options. Leather boots tend to be more comfortable and breathable whereas plastic/composite boots are warmer and more waterproof.

    B2 boots are compatible with C1 and C2 crampons.

    Key features of a good alpine boot include Vibram soles, a reversed leather upper (which protect the best side of the leather from scuffing and abrasion and improves durability and water resistance) and ankle flex and a higher cut which give control, mobility and support.

    Boots can be hired in resort but to avoid discomfort we do strongly recommend that you have your own pair which needs to be well worn-in prior to your trip.

    Alpine huts supply hut slippers so that you don't need to take any other footwear apart from your boots. Boots are not allowed in the dining room or dormitories and must be left in the foyer.

  • Base Layer Top and Bottoms – a few base layer tops, usually long-sleeved is best, wool base layers form Ortovox are good as they offer good wicking properties and dry quickly. For your legs, a couple of pairs of long or ¾ length bottoms are best.

    Mid-layer fleece tops – a couple of fleece type jacket or tops that can be worn between your base layer and outer layers. The “Layering” approach offers the best heat retention and flexibility in warm and cold weather.

    Insulation Layer - a down or Primaloft jacket is a good item to have ready to wear in the event of cold weather, it can live in your rucksack as a spare layer and can come in very handy for sudden changes in the weather.

    Lightweight softshell type trousers - you want to wear a lightweight softshell or similar material on your legs, these types of trouser offer good protection from snow/ice as well as abrasion on rock and are comfortable to move in.

    Walking shorts or a pair of trousers with zip-off legs. Useful for walk-ins to huts on hot days.

    Gore-Tex Jacket - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable jackets. Best to have a lightweight jacket that can be worn in the event of wet or windy weather but is packable enough to fit in your rucksack. Your insulated ski jacket will be overkill and too hot and bulky.

    Gore-Tex Pants - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable trousers. Lightweight is important plus side zips for putting on over your boots and crampons. Used in cold, wet and windy weather.

    Sun hat and warm hat – bring a wide-brimmed sun hat or baseball cap plus a warm beanie style hat.

    Light, thin gloves – a thin pair of fleece or softshell gloves for warm weather are a must.

    Insulated gloves - You need to have a pair of waterproof warm gloves to wear on cold days.

    Gaiters – these are useful to wear to keep snow out of your boots.

    Socks - 3-4 pairs of medium weight socks usually mid-calf length is good.

  • These items are essential for all alpine mountaineering courses

    All items can be hired from Mountain Tracks or from sport shops in the Alps.

    • Climbing helmet
    • Ice Axe - General mountaineering / alpine pick 55-70cms long depending on your height.
    • Boot crampons - with anti-balling plates.
    • Climbing Harness – adjustable leg loops are useful for easy of putting on over your boots.
    • Adjustable trekking pole(s)

  • Rucksack - A simple and lightweight pack with a capacity of between 35-45 liters is recommended. You need to have one loop for carrying an ice axe on your rucksack.

    Lightweight sleeping bag liner – a silk or cotton sleeping bag liner is now compulsory in all mountain huts.

    Water bottle or Thermos – a water bottle or hydration system is needed.

    Head torch with spare batteries

    Penknife

    Personal first Aid Kit - Should contain:

    Plasters – of various sizes and possibly some adhesive wound dressings.

    Pain Killers – aspirin or Paracetamol/Nurofen

    Antiseptic cream or wipes

    Blister kit – compeed and elastic tape to hold it in place (essential)!

    (Note: Guides will have comprehensive first aid kits and are qualified in mountain first aid)

    Whistle

    Sun Glasses - minimum category 3.

    Ski Goggles – these can be very useful if you encounter strong winds and poor weather.

    Sunscreen and Lip Protection

    Ear Plugs - For noisy huts!!

    Camera

    Hold-all bag - for gear not required on trek. Will be left at first hotel and collected on return.

    Passport

    Money - You will need some cash for food and drinks. There are some ATMs and most hotels, shops and restaurants will accept credit cards, but most huts still accept cash only. You should allow about 30-40 Swiss Francs or 25-35 Euros per day for lunch and drinks (amount approximate and depends on consumption).

    Toiletries – Should contain:

    Toothbrush and paste - a mini one is ideal

    Soap

    Anti-bacterial hand cleaner

    Wet wipes – essential to try to maintain hygiene

    Tissues and toilet roll

    Small light quick dry towel e.g. a Lifeventure Soft fiber towel

    (Any other essentials you need but remember there are no shower facilities and generally no running water in the huts and you have to carry everything with you!)

    Alpine club card - If you're a member.

    Book, pack of cards and or Ipod/MP3 player – It’s nice to have something to read or listen to when you are in the huts or to challenge your fellow travelers to a game of card. These items are not essential but if you have space you might appreciate them.

  • It is possible to hire boots and the technical items needed for the Mont Blanc Climber week in Chamonix and guideline prices for 6 days hire are:

    Mountaineering boots €55
    Ice Axe €30
    Boot crampons €35
    Harness €15
    Helmet €15

    If you wish to hire any technical kit please contact us in advance with your requirements.

Zermatt.jpg

Zermatt

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Zermatt is a charming alpine village. It is car-free and reached only by a 15 minute train journey from the valley station of Tasch. As you would expect given its location it is one of Europe's main centres of alpinism and is a bustling town in both winter and summer.

Surely there is no more dramatic sight in the Alps than the distinctive shape of the Matterhorn!  At 4,478m it may not be the highest mountain in the Alps, but it is easily the most recognised.

All three of Zermatt's main ski areas soar to at least 3,100m. Good snow conditions are almost guaranteed and there are some superb long runs back down to the village. At 3,883m the Klein Matterhorn lift is one of the highest cable car in the world. The ski down from here is almost 13 kilometres - with 2,200 vertical metres of varied descent.  Zermatt has extensive off-piste terrain and thanks to the extremely high altitude and abundance of north facing slopes, powder snow can still be found many days after it falls. In spring especially, huge areas of both powder and spring snow can be found off piste.

Zermatt is the Alps' biggest heliskiing center and its helicopter pad in the village is very busy during the winter months. Many of the runs do not require excellent skiing ability. The scenery, as you'd expect, is truly spectacular.

Our top reasons to visit Zermatt 

  • Switzerland’s premier destination for alpinism and skiing, a traditional Swiss village that has the additional benefit of being car-free
  • Idyllic location high in the mountains with beautiful scenery and surrounded by thirty 4,000m+ peaks
  • The Matterhorn – one of the world’s most iconic mountains
  • Justifiably rated as one of the world’s best ski and climbing resorts
  • Huge ski terrain with lots of variety including world class off-piste. The highest point of the Zermatt ski area is not far short of 4,000m. Good skiing can usually be had until end April and ski touring well into May
  • Excellent après-ski and nightlife
  • Possible to ski across to Italy for lunch in Cervinia!

 

Resort Information:

Resort Height: 1,650m
Highest Lift: 3,883m
Nearest Airport: Zurich or Geneva

Transfer Options: We recommend you take the train from Zurich or Geneva airport to Zermatt. Connections are regular and the its takes approximatly 4hrs from Geneva with 1 change and 3hrs 30 mins with 1 or 2 cahnged from Zurich airport. To look up train timetables use this link Swiss Railway Timetables

More about the Matterhorn

  • The Matterhorn is known as Monte Cervino in Italian and Mont Cervin in French.
  • It is located in the Pennine Alps (at 45°58′N, 7°39′E) on the border between Switzerland and Italy. 
  • It was first climbed in 1865 by a climbing party that included Edward Whymper. It was the last major mountain of the Alps to be climbed. 
  • The North Face of the Matterhorn is one of the six great north faces of the Alps. The others are: the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, the Piz Badile, the Petit Dru, the Eiger, and the Grandes Jorasses.
  • A miniature imitation of the Matterhorn featuring a bobsled ride is one of the attractions at Disneyland in Anaheim, California
  • It is a condition of booking that you are insured for your chosen activity and the cover must include medical expenses, personal accident, personal liability, third party risks and rescue (including helicopter rescue). You are strongly advised also to take out cover against cancellation and curtailment.

    For UK residents Ski Club Travel Insurance may be a suitable option.

    For more details and to purchase a policy online visit http://www.skiclubinsurance.co.uk/
    If you need assistance arranging your personal insurance please let us know.
     

  • Brexit advice for skiers and snowboarders going to the EU 

    The impending deadline for the UK to leave the EU may have you worried, especially if you have travel plans in the new year, however with a few steps you can make sure you are well prepared for any eventuality. As of January 1st 2021, there will be new rules for UK residence when travelling to the EU and other European countries. 

    The Ski Club of Great Britain has compiled some of that advice to help skiers and snowboarders understand the changes, and what they might need to do if they are travelling after the Brexit deadline. 

    Entering the EU and other countries within Europe 

    At Border control, you may have to show your return ticket and money 

    At border control, you may need to: 

    • Show a return or onward ticket
    • Show you have enough money for your stay
    • Use separate lanes from EU, EEA and Swiss citizens when queueing 

    Visas for short trips: you will not need one if you’re a tourist 

    If you’re a tourist, you will not need a visa for short trips to most EU countries, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland. You’ll be able to stay for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. 

    Different rules will apply to Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus and Romania. If you visit these countries, visits to other EU countries will not count towards the 90-day total. 

    You may need a visa or permit to stay for longer, to work or study, or for business travel. 

    Passports 

    On the day you travel, you’ll need your passport to both: 

    • Have at least 6 months left 
    • Be less than 10 years old (even if it has 6 months or more left)

    If you do not renew your passport, you may not be able to travel to most EU countries and Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, and Switzerland.

    Holidays 

    Most holiday companies have taken measures to ensure that there will be minimal impact to their guests’ experience. 

    If you are taking a package deal that is covered by ABTA, ABTOT & ATOL you will have the same buyer protection as before. You should always purchase travel insurance to make sure you are covered in case of delays or cancellations. If in doubt about arrangements contact your tour operator to make sure there aren’t any changes.  It is probably worth adding a little extra time before passport control just in case things aren’t running as smooth as normal. 

    Both Ski Club Freshtracks and Mountain Tracks holidays are covered by ATOL & ABTOT protection and are guaranteed to run regardless of the new Brexit rules. Take a look at our holidays here. 

    Travel insurance 

    Most travel insurers will offer the same amount of coverage in EU countries as they did before if you already have a policy with them, in fact, many of them are underwritten by large EU corporations. It is possible that premiums might go up after December 31st as we leave the EHIC scheme and other shared healthcare and insurance organizations. If you aren’t sure whether your insurance still covers you, head to their website or give them a call. 

    Your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) will be valid up to 31 December 2020. It’s particularly important you get travel insurance with the right cover if you have a pre-existing medical condition. This is because the EHIC scheme covers pre-existing conditions, while many travel insurance policies do not. 

    Ski Club Insurance will continue to provide the same cover whatever the outcome of the Brexit negotiations. For full Insurance, policy details go here.

    Driving

    A ‘green card’ is proof that you have motor insurance cover when driving abroad. You should plan to carry one for the vehicle you’re driving in the EU and EEA, including in Ireland, from 1 January 2021.

    You will need to carry multiple green cards if:

    • You have fleet insurance – you’ll need a green card for each vehicle
    • Your vehicle is towing a trailer or caravan - you’ll need one for the towing vehicle and one for the trailer/caravan (you need separate trailer insurance in some countries)
    • You have 2 policies covering the duration of your trip, for example, if your policy renews during the journey

    Contact your vehicle insurance provider 6 weeks before you travel to get green cards for your vehicle, caravan or trailer. The green card can be emailed to you by your insurer for you to print. For more information head to gov.uk

    Mobile roaming 

    From 1 January 2021, the guarantee of free mobile phone roaming throughout the EU, Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway will end. 

    A new law means that you’re protected from getting mobile data charges above £45 without you knowing. 

    You can find all the latest information on gov.uk. 

  • All our mountaineering trips are run by our team of IFMGA Mountain Guides. The team is led by Olly Allen, Matt Dickinson and Nick Parks.

  • The Alps generally have a very pleasant climate throughout the spring, summer and autumn with warm days and cool nights, with daytime temperatures in the valley around 25 - 30°C. At high altitude the temperature often goes down below -10 and can feel even colder with wind chill.

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