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Skill: **
Muztagh Ata is known as one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the world and technically speaking, it's a straightforward climb
and ski ascent with an average angle of 25-30 degrees. Nevertheless it is a very high peak (over 3,000m higher than Mont Blanc)
so it is by no means an “easy summit”. Between camp 1 and 2 is the most dangerous section, a huge icefield with hundreds of
hidden crevasses which needs to be negotiated with great care. Extensive ski mountaineering and high-altitude expedition
experience is essential. Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated
since both are Himalayan in character. Navigating on the expansive featureless slopes in poor conditions is very difficult and
coupled with the adverse weather and likelihood of extremely high winds and whiteout conditions makes this a true
mountaineering challenge.
Stamina: ****
Climbing/skiing to over 7000m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average climbing time is around 6-7 hours per day. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground at high altitude.
At over 7,500m, Muztagh Ata is the world’s highest ski mountaineering peak. Located in China’s Xianjiang province in the far western section of the Pamir Mountain Range close to the borders of China, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, this huge isolated mountain dominates the surroundings – its glaciated summit looms up to 2 miles over the Subashi valley. It is located close to the old ‘silk road’ and despite the barren, remote landscape it is a stunning area. The mountain was first climbed in 1956. The first ski ascent was in 1980.
Itinerary
Day 1
Fly London to Bishkek
Day 2
Arrive Bishtek and drive via Naryn to Tash Rabat a well-preserved 15th century stone caravanserai (an inn for merchants
travelling the silk road). Stay overnight in a yurt camp.
Day 3
250 km drive to the Kyrgyz-China border and on to Kashgar (1,290m/4,282ft). Overnight in a hotel in Kashgar
Day 4
Day at leisure in Kashgar - explore the local sites including Id Kah Mosque, Abakh Khoja Tomb or 18m high statue of
former Chinese Leader Mao Zedong. Kashgar is an oasis city and it sits on the old silk road and is known for its famous market
and bazaars where you can find all manner of local produce, arts and crafts. Stay second night in Kashgar.
Day 5
Leave Kashgar for the 200km drive to the village of Subashi (3,850m) close to Karakol lake, at 3,600m the highest lake in
the Pamirs. From the road we’ll have our first views of Muztagh Ata. Camp close to the lake.
Day 6
Ascend to base camp (4,500m/14,700ft). Camels will carry our equipment. The trek to BC takes 3-4 hours. Due to the
popularity of Muztagh Ata, there are usually several expedition teams at base camp.
Days 7-22
Ascent of Mustaga Ata. We have 15 days for the ascent of Muztagh Aga. During this time we’ll establish 3 camps above BC
and make several trips between the camps.
Day 23
Return from Base camp to Kashgar. Overnight in hotel in Kashgar…with hot showers!
Day2 24 & 25
We return via the same route so by road from Kashgar to Bishket with an overnight stop in Tash Rabat and in Bishtek.
Day 26
Fly from Bishtek back to London
This is our recommended itinerary, however local circumstances, weather and safety considerations may oblige the group
leader to make changes, even at the very last minute.
Additional Information
Price
£3,125 per person
The price includes all travel between Bishtek and the trailhead at Subashi, all accommodation, all meals, all camping
equipment, all guide costs, costs for porters and cooks, all group equipment.
The price does not include international flights to Bishtek, visas, personal travel insurance, personal equipment,
personal expenses and optional extras.
Group Size
Minimum 6. Maximum 12 with 2 IFMGA guides.
Your guides
The group will be accompanied from the UK by Nick Parks, IFMGA Mountain Guide and Mountain Tracks’ Founder Director. For
full details on Nick visit
Nick's profile
Accommodation and Meals
3 nights will be spent in a hotel in Kashgar at the start and finish of the trip.
At base camp and camp 1 there will be a mess tent and a cook to prepare fresh food. Here group members will sleep in
comfortable two-person tents. On the ascent good quality, high altitude 2 or 3 man tents will be used.
Throughout the expedition (including camps 2 and 3) food will be prepared by cooks. Food will be a combination of
nutritious, low-fat and high-fibre ingredients. All participants are strongly recommended to carry a selection of their
favourite trail snacks.
Your Safety
This expedition is not a packaged holiday where everything can be planned in advance. We cannot assure that everything
will run like clockwork.
Climbing and ski mountaineering at altitude has its dangers. These risks can never be removed altogether but they can be
minimised. Our aim is to provide you with a thrilling expedition that is directed with maximum attention to your safety and the
safety of others. The risks are reduced by the expert judgement of our leaders. They will make decisions with safety as the
first priority, even if this is at the expense of reaching your ultimate goals.
Altitude
High altitude symptoms vary from one person to another and are unpredictable. What is certain, however, is that they can
almost always be overcome by steady acclimatisation. Right from the start we will be ascending very gradually to ensure
everyone is well prepared for the thinner air.
Equipment
Our recommended equipment list will be sent to you at the time of booking.
Visa Requirements
To be advised
Climate
Although the Pamir mountains are known for their extreme weather conditions, extended periods of stable weather are quite
common on Muztagh Ata especially in July and August with very pleasant daytime temperatures at base camp. These drop to about
5°C to -5°C at night and at the summit it can be as cold as -20°C. Muztagh Ata is a huge isolated mountain and extremely strong
winds and adverse weather conditions are to be expected.
Muztagh Ata Facts
Altitude: 7,546m/24,757ft
Coordinates - 38.3° N, 75.1°E
Time in Xianjiang Province, China
Kashgar is 6 hours ahead of GMT. Thus, at midday in Kashgar it is 6am in the UK.
Expenses while in China
Nearly all your expenses are covered in the cost of the trip. There are, however, some costs e.g. alcohol or personal
expenses which are excluded